Nea ɛreyɛ denim ho nsɛnnennen .

Denim a ɛyɛ den no ho ntease: nea enti a ɛyɛ asɛnnennen ma nwene .

Denim yɛ den a wontumi nnye ho kyim, na ɛno ne nea enti a ɛde asɛnnennen kɛse ba wɔn a wɔyɛ nnwenne so no so pɛpɛɛpɛ. Ntama a ɛyɛ den na ɛyɛ den no taa ko tia ade a wɔde hyɛ mu, titiriw bere a woredi nneɛma a wɔayɛ no kɛse ho dwuma no. Nea ɛnte sɛ ntama a emu yɛ hare te sɛ cotton anaa polyester no, denim nwene a ɛyɛ den no betumi asɛe ntama no ne wo mfiri no nyinaa sɛ woanhwɛ yiye a. Saa asɛnnennen yi nyɛ ade a ɛyɛ den a wɔde yɛ ade nkutoo; Ɛfa sɛnea ntama no yɛ n’ade wɔ stitching nhyehyɛe no ho no ho.

Sɛ nhwɛso no, nhwehwɛmu bi a American Sewing Guild yɛe kyerɛe sɛ ade a wɔde twe ade no bubu no yɛ 35% kɛse bere a wɔde nwene wɔ denim so bere a wɔde toto ntama a ɛyɛ mmerɛw ho no. Eyi te saa efisɛ denim weave no betumi ama ade no abɔ anaasɛ ɛbɛbɔ, titiriw wɔ nsusuwii a ɛyɛ den a ɛyɛ den a wɔde yɛ ade no mu.

Sɛnea Wodi Toughness: Right Needle ne Machine nhyehyɛe ho dwuma .

Enti, ɔkwan bɛn so na wudi Denim a ɛyɛ den no so? Nea ɛho hia ne sɛ wobɛpaw ade a ɛfata ama adwuma no. Denim nwene hwehwɛ ade a emu yɛ duru, a wɔtaa frɛ no 'denim ade.' Saa nnade yi wɔ ahama a ɛyɛ den ne beae a ɛyɛ den a wɔayɛ no pɔtee sɛ ɛbɛbɔ ntama a ɛyɛ den mu a ɛrensɛe wɔn. Bio nso, wo mfiri no nhyehyɛe a wobɛsesa no ho hia yiye. Stitch tenten a ɛkorɔn ne ahoɔhare a ɛkɔ brɛoo no bɛboa ma nhyɛso a ɛwɔ ade ne ntama no nyinaa so no so atew.

Case in point: Professional embroiderers taa kamfo kyerɛ sɛ fa #90/14 denim needle di dwuma bere a wɔde ntama a emu yɛ duru sen 8oz reyɛ adwuma no. Wɔayɛ saa kɛse yi sɛnea ɛbɛyɛ a ebetumi adi denim nhyehyɛe a ɛyɛ den na ɛyɛ den no ho dwuma, na ama wɔapam ade yiye a mfomso kakraa bi na ɛwɔ mu. Wobɛpɛ nso sɛ wode stitch speed a wɔatew so—bɛyɛ 500-600 stitches wɔ simma biako mu—di dwuma ma nea eye sen biara ba.

Ntama a ɛma ɛyɛ den: Nea enti a ɛho hia ne sɛnea wɔde di dwuma .

Asɛnnennen titiriw foforo a ɛwɔ denim ho ne sɛ ne ho a ɛyɛ den no betumi ama wɔapam no pɛpɛɛpɛ, anaasɛ nea enye koraa no, wɔatwitwa nneɛma mu. Eyi ba efisɛ ntama no abɔde mu a ɛyɛ den no mma kwan mma ɛnyɛ mmerɛw sɛ wɔbɛsakra no bere a wɔrepam no. Nea ɛbɛyɛ na wɔatumi asiw eyi ano no, stabilizers bɛyɛ w’adamfo paa. Saa nneɛma yi boa ma ntama no mu yɛ den na ɛtew kankyee so wɔ nwene no mu, na ɛma nea efi mu ba no yɛ nea ɛkɔ so daa.

Momma yɛnka nɔma: Sɛnea nwene ho abenfo kyerɛ no, sɛ wode stabilizers di dwuma a, ebetumi atew stitch misalignment so akodu 40%. Wɔkamfo kyerɛ kɛse bere a woredi denim ho dwuma no, wɔkamfo kyerɛ kɛse sɛ wode stabilizer a ɛyɛ mmerɛw a wɔde twa ade bedi dwuma ama mmoa a eye sen biara bere a woredi denim ho dwuma no. Ɛma ɛyɛ den na ɛyɛ mmerɛw, na ɛma ntama no tumi kura adwini no mu a ɛremma wɔankyinkyim.

Nsɛm a wɔayɛ ho nhwehwɛmu: denim nwene ho haw ahorow ano aduru ankasa .

Wɔ wiase tebea ankasa mu no, ntade a wɔayɛ no sɛnea wɔpɛ a agye din no hyiaa nsɛm a anibere wom bere a na wɔrehyɛ ahyɛnsode ahorow wɔ denim jacket so no. Wohui sɛ na mfonini ahorow no akyinkyim dodo anaasɛ nhama a wɔatwitwa ahyɛ mu ma, ɛmfa ho sɛnea nhyehyɛe a edi kan no yɛ pɛpɛɛpɛ no. Bere a wɔne wɔn a wɔyɛ nwene ho abenfo susuw ho wiei no, wɔdan kɔɔ denim nnade a emu yɛ duru so, na ɛmaa wɔn mfiri no yɛɛ brɛoo, na wɔde biribi a ɛma nneɛma gyina hɔ pintinn a emu yɛ duru bae. Nea afi mu aba? Nkɔso kɛse wɔ stitch a ɛyɛ pɛpɛɛpɛ ne ne nyinaa mu nhyehyɛe no mu.

Ahyɛnsode no tumi maa nneɛma a wɔyɛ no yɛɛ kɛse a wɔamfa su pa ammɔ afɔre, na ɛkyerɛe sɛ, sɛ wɔyɛ nsakrae a ɛfata a, denim betumi ayɛ mmerɛw sɛ wɔbɛpam denim te sɛ ntama foforo biara.

Nneɛma atitiriw a wɔde bedi denim nwene ho nsɛnnennen so no ho nsɛm tiawa Twa ano aduru

2: Stitch a ɛyɛ papa ne nhyɛso a ɛwɔ denim so no sohwɛ .

Momma yɛnyɛ nea ɛwɔ hɔ ankasa —embroidering on denim nyɛ nantew wɔ abɔnten so, titiriw bere a ɛfa stitch quality ho no. Denim weave a ɛyɛ den no taa de nhyɛso ho nsɛm a ebetumi ama wo nsusuwii ahorow ayɛ sɛ basabasayɛ ba. Sɛ wo nhama no ayɛ mmerɛw dodo anaasɛ ayɛ den dodo a, wubewie a nea ebefi mu aba no sua. Ɔhaw no ne sɛ denim nhama a ɛyɛ den no nkɔ te sɛ kotoku anaa polyester, a ebetumi ama wɔanya nhyɛso a ɛnyɛ pɛpɛɛpɛ. Gye me di, ɛyɛ abasamtu sɛ wobɛhwɛ sɛnea wo nsusuwii a wɔde ahwɛyiye ayɛ no asɛe efisɛ na nhyɛso no ayɛ basaa.

Data kyerɛ sɛ nhyɛso a ɛmfata betumi ama 50% akɔ soro wɔ stitch mfomso mu, na ɛno mpo nkan ɔsɛe a ɛwɔ wo mfiri no mu. Sɛ nhwɛso no, nhwehwɛmu bi a Amerika Nwene Fekuw no yɛe wɔ afe 2022 mu no kyerɛe sɛ mfiri a wɔde nwene ade no mu 45% fi denim so no fi nhyɛso a wɔde di dwuma ɔkwammɔne so. Enti, wobɛyɛ dɛn asiesie eyi? Momma yɛnbubu mu.

Asaawa a ɛfata a wobɛpaw ne ade a wode bɛkɔ: Anamɔn a edi kan a ɛbɛma asi wo yiye .

Ade a edi kan a ɛsɛ sɛ wunya no yiye ne asaawa no. Standard polyester threads kɛkɛ ntwitwa no wɔ denim so. Mmom no, kɔhwehwɛ asaawa a ɛyɛ den na ɛyɛ den—susuw rayon anaa kotoku a wɔde afra ho. Saa nhama yi fata yiye ma denim mu duru ne ne nwene a emu yɛ duru no. Fa saa ade no kɛse a ɛfata ka ho —mpɛn pii no #90/14 anaa #100/16 ade —na woadi agoru no anim dedaw.

Sɛ nhwɛso no, bere a adwumakuw bi a wɔyɛ ntade wɔ Intanɛt so no dan kɔɔ aduru a wɔde yɛ wɔn denim a ɛyɛ den so no, wɔbɔɔ amanneɛ sɛ wɔtew nhama a ɛpaapae ne nhyɛso ho nsɛm so 30%. Saa nsakrae a ɛyɛ mmerɛw yi maa wiase no yɛɛ nsonsonoe. Ɛno ne tumi a ɛwɔ nneɛma a ɛfata a wɔpaw mu.

Afiri no nhyehyɛe a wɔyɛ no yiye: Fine-tuning ma nhyɛso a edi mũ .

Afei, momma yɛnka mfiri nhyehyɛe ho asɛm. Sɛ ɛba denim so a, mfomso ketewaa bi a ɛba wɔ nhyɛso mu no betumi asɛe adwuma bi nyinaa. Wɔ denim so no, wobɛpɛ sɛ wode thread tension nhyehyɛe a ɛba fam di dwuma —bɛyɛ 3 kosi 4 ma mfiri dodow no ara. Adɛn? Efisɛ Denim weave a ɛyɛ den no betumi ama asaawa a ɛwɔ soro no atwe denneennen dodo sɛ wode nhyɛso a ɛkorɔn di dwuma a, na ɛde puckering anaa asaawa a ɛbubu ba. Mma wo werɛ mmfi sɛ wobɛsesa bobbin nhyɛso no nso; Ɛsɛ sɛ ɛne asaawa a ɛwɔ soro no hyia na ama wɔatumi awie no yiye.

Nnwuma mu kannifo biako wɔ denim nwene, jeans a ɛyɛ fɛ a wɔde yɛ adwuma no mu no hui sɛ sɛ wɔsakra wɔn mfiri no mu nhyɛso a ɛwɔ soro no ma ɛyɛ 3.5 ne wɔn bobbin nhyɛso no a, ɛde nkɔso kɛse aba wɔ stitch a ɛne ne ho hyia no mu. Saa tweak ketewa yi maa wɔn mass production of embroidered denim jackets no nyɛ ntɛmntɛm nko na mmom wotumi de ho to so kɛse nso.

Stabilizers: akokodurufo a wɔanto wɔn dwom wɔ denim nwene mu .

Sɛ ɛba sɛ wobedi nhyɛso ho nsɛm ho dwuma a, stabilizers ho hia koraa. Denim, esiane sɛ ɛyɛ ntama a emu yɛ duru na ɛyɛ nwene nti, ɛtaa sakra bere a afiri no yɛ adwuma no. Saa kankabi yi betumi ama nhama no ayɛ nea ɛnteɛ anaasɛ ɛne ne ho nhyia. Ɛhɔ na stabilizers ba mu.Sɛ wode cut-away stabilizer di dwuma a, ɛhwɛ ma ntama no tra hɔ na ɛma mmoa wɔ stitching nhyehyɛe no nyinaa mu. Ɛboa nso ma wotumi di twetwe foforo biara a efi afiri no mu a wɔde pam ade no ho dwuma.

Pro tip ni: Sɛ woreyɛ nwene wɔ denim a emu yɛ duru so a, fa medium-weight cut-away stabilizer di dwuma. Saa stabilizer yi de mmoa ne nsakrae a ɛfata pɛpɛɛpɛ ma. Abenfo kamfo eyi kyerɛ sɛ wɔnyɛ nhyehyɛe ahorow a ɛkɔ akyiri, baabi a stitch pɛpɛɛpɛyɛ ho hia kɛse. Nnansa yi ara, ntadehyɛ ho aguadifo kɛse bi kaa sɛ ɛdenam cut-away stabilizers a wɔde dii dwuma so no, wohuu nsɛm a ɛkyinkyim ne asaawa nhyɛso ho nsɛm so tew 40% wɔ wɔn denim nwene mu.

Nsɛm a wɔaboaboa ano: Nhyɛso a ɛkari pɛ ma nea efi mu ba a eye

3: Asɛnnennen a ɛne sɛ wɔbɛkyinkyim nsɛm na wɔakyeakyea wɔ denim so no so nkonimdi .

Denim a ɛyɛ den na ɛyɛ den no taa ma wɔkyinkyim na ɛyɛ mmerɛw, titiriw bere a wɔreyɛ nwene ho adwuma a ɛyɛ nwonwa no. Eyi ba bere a ntama no ntumi nnyina yiye, na ɛma ɛtrɛw anaasɛ ɛdannan bere a afiri no yɛ adwuma wɔ nhyehyɛe no mu no. Denim, esiane sɛ ɛyɛ ade a emu yɛ duru nti, ebetumi atrɛw pɛpɛɛpɛ wɔ nhama a wɔpam no nhyɛso ase, na ɛde ahonhon a ɛnyɛ fɛ anaasɛ ɛnyɛ pɛpɛɛpɛ ba.

Nsɛm a efi International Textile Institute hɔ no kyerɛ sɛ hooping a ɛmfata ne nea entumi nnyina no ne nneɛma atitiriw a ɛde warping ba wɔ denim nwene mu. Nokwarem no, wɔkyerɛ sɛ mfomso a ɛwɔ nwene a ɛwɔ denim so nyinaa mu bɛboro 30% fi ntama a wɔakyinkyim no. Wobetumi akwati nsɛm yi mu 25% denam nsakrae a ɛnyɛ den te sɛ hooping a ɛfata ne stabilizers a wɔde di dwuma so.

Ano aduru 1: Hooping a ɛfata a wɔde besiw nsakrae ano .

Akyinnye biara nni ho sɛ hooping yɛ ade a ɛho hia sen biara bere a wɔrepam denim no. Hoop a ɛyɛ mmerɛw anaasɛ ɛnyɛ nea wɔahyɛ no den no betumi ama ntama no asesa bere a wɔrepam no, na ɛde warping aba. Ɛho hia kɛse sɛ wobɛbɔ ntama no mu denneennen na woayɛ no pɛpɛɛpɛ, ahwɛ ahu sɛ mpopaho anaasɛ slack biara nni hɔ a ebetumi asɛe adwini no.

Ade titiriw biako a ɛyɛ ntade a wɔyɛ no hui sɛ ɛdenam wɔn denim ntama no a wɔhwɛ hui sɛ wɔayɛ hoop no so pɛpɛɛpɛ no, wohui sɛ sintɔ ahorow a ɛfa distortion ho no so atew 40%. Na adeyɛ a ɛyɛ mmerɛw yi yɛ agoru a ɛsakra, titiriw bere a wɔde nwene ho mfonini akɛse reyɛ adwuma no. Hoop a ɛyɛ den, mpo bɛma ntama no akɔ so ayɛ nea ɛfata na ama wɔapam adwini no a wɔrenkyinkyim.

Ano aduru 2: Stabilizers a wɔde di dwuma ma mmoa foforo .

Stabilizers yɛ wo kokoam akode bere a ɛba sɛ wubesiw warping ano no. Denim, esiane sɛ ɛyɛ ntama a ɛyɛ den saa nti, wontumi mfa wɔn ho nto so sɛ ɛno ankasa bekura ne nsusuwii mu. Stabilizer pa ma mmoa a ɛho hia na ama ntama no ayɛ pɛ wɔ bere a wɔrepam no no mu, na ɛmma ɛntrɛw anaasɛ ɛnyɛ nea ɛnteɛ.

Sɛ nhwɛso no, denim jacket a wonim no yiye no bɔɔ amanneɛ sɛ sɛ wɔde stabilizer a ɛyɛ mmerɛw a wɔde twa ade di dwuma a, ɛtew ntama a wɔkyinkyim no so bɛboro 35%. Stabilizers hwɛ hu sɛ ntama no kɔ so tra hɔ, na ɛma stitching process no yɛ mmerɛw na nea etwa to no yɛ no pɛpɛɛpɛ. Mfa wo ho nhyɛ saa anammɔn yi mu —ɛfata sɛ wode sika hyɛ mu!

Ano aduru 3: Stitching a ɛyɛ brɛoo na ɛyɛ nsakrae wɔ sɛnea wɔayɛ no mu .

Ɔkwan foforo a etu mpɔn a wɔfa so ko tia distortion ne sɛ wɔbɛsesa afiri no ahoɔhare a wɔde pam ade no. Denim yɛ den na ɛyɛ den, enti afiri a wɔde nwene ade no a wɔde tu mmirika no betumi ama ntama no atrɛw anaasɛ asesa. Sɛ wɔbrɛ ade a wɔde nwene no ase a, ɛma ade no tumi hyɛn mu pɛpɛɛpɛ, na ɛma asiane a ɛwɔ hɔ sɛ wɔbɛkyinkyim no so tew.

Adwumakuw bi a agye din a wɔyɛ agumadi ntade no kyɛe sɛ ɛdenam ahoɔhare a wɔde pam ade so fi 1000 kosi 750 a wɔpam no simma biako mu no, wɔtew warping so na wonyaa nea ɛyɛ pɛpɛɛpɛ, mpo nea efii mu bae. Bio nso, sɛ wɔtew sɛnea wɔayɛ no kɛse anaasɛ ɛyɛ den so—titiriw ma nsusuwii akɛse anaa nea ɛyɛ nwonwa—betumi aboa ma nhyɛso a ɛwɔ ntama no so no so atew.

Akwan titiriw a wɔfa so ko tia warping ne distortion

Ɔkwan bɛn so na wusiw warping ano wɔ wo denim nnwuma mu? So wode saa akwan yi bi adi dwuma de atew nsɛm a wɔakyinkyim no so? Fa w’adwene to nsɛm a ɛwɔ aseɛ ha no mu na fa wo afotuo no kyerɛ yɛn!